Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined
| Men's combined at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Olympic sport climbing | |||||||||||||
| Venue | Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo | ||||||||||||
| Dates | 3 August 2021 (qualification) 5 August 2021 (final) | ||||||||||||
| Competitors | 20 from 15 nations | ||||||||||||
| Winning Score | 28 | ||||||||||||
| Medalists | |||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
| Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics | ||
|---|---|---|
| ||
| List of sport climbers Qualification | ||
| Combined | men | women |
The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final.[2]
Qualification
[edit]Competition format
[edit]In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[3]
In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.
In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.
In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.
Route-setting
[edit]Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.
The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[4][5]
The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[6]
Records
[edit]Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.
| Speed records | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| World record |  Veddriq Leonardo (INA) |
5.208 | Salt Lake City, United States | 28 May 2021 |
| Olympic record | Not established | – | – | – |
The following records were established during the competition:
| Date | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 3 | Speed Qualification | Bassa Mawem |  France
|
5.45[7] | OR |
Schedule
[edit]All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)
| Date[8] | Time | Round |
|---|---|---|
| Tuesday, 3 August 2021 | 17:00 | Speed Qualification |
| 18:00 | Bouldering Qualification | |
| 21:10 | Lead Qualification | |
| Thursday, 5 August 2021 | 17:30 | Speed Final |
| 18:30 | Bouldering Final | |
| 21:10 | Lead Final |
Results
[edit]Qualification
[edit]The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.
| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[9] | Bouldering[10] | Lead[11] | Total [12] | Notes | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | B | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Results | CP | HR | TFT | CP | |||||
| 1 | Mickaël Mawem | France |
5.95 | 3 | T2z2 | T1z1 | T1z1 | z1 | 3T4z 4 5 | 1 | 28+ | 2:24 | 11 | 33.00 | Q | |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki |  Japan |
5.94 | 2 | T2z1 | T4z4 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 6 7 | 2 | 26+ | 2:11 | 14 | 56.00 | Q | |
| 3 | Colin Duffy |  United States |
6.23 | 6 | T10z6 | – | T7z6 | – | 2T2z 17 12 | 5 | 42+ | 4:44 | 2 | 60.00 | Q | |
| 4 | Jakob Schubert |  Austria |
6.70 | 12 | z9 | – | z3 | T2z1 | 1T3z 2 13 | 7 | 42+ | 4:02 | 1 | 84.00 | Q | |
| 5 | Adam Ondra |  Czech Republic |
7.46 | 18 | T4z4 | – | z4 | T3z3 | 2T3z 7 11 | 3 | 39+ | 4 | 216.00 | Q | ||
| 6 | Alberto Ginés López |  Spain |
6.32 | 7 | – | – | T12z4 | – | 1T1z 12 4 | 14 | 41+ | 3 | 294.00 | Q | ||
| 7 | Bassa Mawem | France |
5.45 OR | 1 | z4 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 4 | 18 | 7 | 20 | 360.00 | Q | ||
| 8 | Nathaniel Coleman | United States |
6.51 | 10 | z1 | – | T4z3 | z2 | 1T3z 4 6 | 11 | 39 | 5 | 550.00 | Q | ||
| 9 | Alexander Megos |  Germany |
7.47 | 19 | T2z1 | z6 | z7 | z1 | 1T4z 2 15 | 6 | 36+ | 6 | 684.00 | |||
| 10 | Chon Jong-won |  South Korea |
6.21 | 5 | z4 | – | T3z3 | z3 | 1T3z 3 10 | 10 | 26+ | 2:34 | 16 | 800.00 | ||
| 11 | Rishat Khaibullin |  Kazakhstan |
6.19 | 4 | – | – | z3 | – | 0T1z 0 3 | 17 | 28+ | 3:09 | 13 | 884.00 | ||
| 12 | Jan Hojer | Germany |
6.63 | 11 | z2 | – | T3z3 | z3 | 1T3z 3 8 | 9 | 29+ | 9 | 891.00 | |||
| 13 | Aleksey Rubtsov |  ROC |
7.23 | 16 | T6z3 | – | – | T1z1 | 2T2z 7 4 | 4 | 26+ | 2:29 | 15 | 960.00 | ||
| 14 | Pan Yufei |  China |
7.59 | 20 | T2z2 | – | z12 | z1 | 1T3z 2 15 | 8 | 36 | 7 | 1120.00 | |||
| 15 | Michael Piccolruaz |  Italy |
6.33 | 8 | T5z5 | – | z2 | – | 1T2z 5 7 | 13 | 28+ | 2:33 | 12 | 1248.00 | ||
| 16 | Christopher Cosser |  South Africa |
6.48 | 9 | z7 | – | z8 | – | 0T2z 0 15 | 16 | 29 | 10 | 1440.00 | |||
| 17 | Sean McColl |  Canada |
6.93 | 14 | z2 | – | z1 | – | 0T2z 0 3 | 15 | 35+ | 8 | 1680.00 | |||
| 18 | Kai Harada | Japan |
7.08 | 15 | T4z1 | – | z7 | – | 1T2z 4 8 | 12 | 25+ | 17 | 3060.00 | |||
| 19 | Ludovico Fossali | Italy |
6.71 | 13 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 19.5 | 25 | 2:48 | 18 | 4563.00 | ||
| 20 | Tom O'Halloran |  Australia |
7.34 | 17 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 19.5 | 25 | 3:58 | 19 | 6298.50 | ||
Final
[edit]| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[13][14] | Bouldering[15] | Lead[16] | Total [17] | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Finals | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | Results | CP | HR | CP | |||||||
| R | T | R | T | R | T | ||||||||||||
 |
Alberto Ginés López | Spain |
2 | 7.44 | 7 | 6.56 | 12 | 6.42 | 1 | z1 | z7 | z1 | 0T3z 0 9 | 7 | 38+ | 4 | 28 |
 |
Nathaniel Coleman | United States |
4 | 6.45 | 6 | 6.21 | 10 | Fall | 6 | T1z1 | T3z2 | z1 | 2T3z 4 4 | 1 | 34+ | 5 | 30 |
 |
Jakob Schubert | Austria |
3 | 9.18 | 6 | 6.76 | 9 | W | 7 | T1z1 | z5 | z1 | 1T3z 1 7 | 5 | Top | 1 | 35 |
| 4 | Tomoa Narasaki | Japan |
3 | 6.11 | 8 | 6.02 | 12 | 7.82 | 2 | T1z1 | z3 | z1 | 1T3z 1 5 | 3 | 33+ | 6 | 36 |
| 5 | Mickaël Mawem | France |
4 | 6.36 | 8 | 7.05 | 11 | 6.47 | 3 | T1z1 | z1 | z1 | 1T3z 1 3 | 2 | 23+ | 7 | 42 |
| 6 | Adam Ondra | Czech Republic |
1 | W | 7 | 7.03 | 11 | 6.86 | 4 | T2z1 | – | z1 | 1T2z 2 2 | 6 | 42+ | 2 | 48 |
| 7 | Colin Duffy | United States |
2 | FS | 5 | W | 10 | 6.35 | 5 | T1z1 | z3 | z1 | 1T3z 1 5 | 4 | 40 | 3 | 60 |
| 8 | Bassa Mawem* | France |
1 | DNS | 5 | DNS | 9 | DNS | 8 | – | – | – | DNS | 8 | DNS | 8 | 512 |
* Injured and could not compete.[2]
References
[edit]- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ a b "Climbing-Injury forces France's Bassa Mawem out of men's final". Reuters. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Archived from the original on 2 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Archived from the original on 1 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
- ^ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport climbing at Tokyo 2020: Records set at Olympic debut". Tokyo 2020. Archived from the original on 7 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Qualification Results Summary" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Brackets" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Race Analysis" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Final" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2021.
