Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined
| Women's combined at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Olympic sport climbing | |||||||||||||
| Venue | Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo | ||||||||||||
| Dates | 4 August 2021 (qualification) 6 August 2021 (final) | ||||||||||||
| Competitors | 20 from 15 nations | ||||||||||||
| Medalists | |||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
| Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics | ||
|---|---|---|
| ||
| List of sport climbers Qualification | ||
| Combined | men | women |
The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
The medals for the competition were presented by Ivo Ferriani, IOC Executive Member, Italy, Olympian; and the medalists' bouquets were presented by Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President; Italy.
Qualification
[edit]Competition format
[edit]In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[2]
In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Finals. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.
In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.
In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.
Route-setting
[edit]Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.
The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[3][4]
The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[5]
Records
[edit]Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.
| Speed records | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| World record |  Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) |
6.964 | Moscow, Russia | 21 November 2020 |
| Olympic record | Not established | – | – | – |
The following records were established during the competition:
| Date | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 4 | Speed Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław |  Poland
|
6.97[6] | OR |
| August 6 | Speed Final | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland
|
6.84[7] | WR |
Schedule
[edit]All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)
| Date[8] | Time | Round |
|---|---|---|
| Wednesday, 4 August 2021 | 17:00 | Speed Qualification |
| 18:00 | Bouldering Qualification | |
| 21:10 | Lead Qualification | |
| Friday, 6 August 2021 | 17:30 | Speed Final |
| 18:30 | Bouldering Final | |
| 21:10 | Lead Final |
Results
[edit]Qualification
[edit]The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.
| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[9] | Bouldering[10] | Lead[11] | Total[12] | Notes | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | B | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Results | CP | HR | TFT | CP | |||||
| 1 | Janja Garnbret |  Slovenia |
9.44 | 14 | T1z1 | T1z1 | T1z1 | T1z1 | 4T4z 4 4 | 1 | 30 | 4 | 56.00 | Q | ||
| 2 | Seo Chae-hyun |  South Korea |
10.01 | 17 | T3z1 | T2z2 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 5 5 | 5 | 40+ | 1 | 85.00 | Q | ||
| 3 | Miho Nonaka |  Japan |
7.55 | 4 | T2z1 | z1 | z1 | – | 1T3z 2 3 | 8 | 30+ | 3 | 96.00 | Q | ||
| 4 | Akiyo Noguchi | Japan |
8.23 | 9 | T2z1 | z1 | T2z1 | T1z1 | 3T4z 5 4 | 3 | 27+ | 6 | 162.00 | Q | ||
| 5 | Brooke Raboutou |  United States |
8.67 | 12 | T2z1 | T1z1 | z1 | T1z1 | 3T4z 4 4 | 2 | 26+ | 3:40 | 8 | 192.00 | Q | |
| 6 | Jessica Pilz |  Austria |
8.51 | 11 | T3z1 | z3 | z1 | – | 1T3z 3 5 | 9 | 33+ | 2 | 198.00 | Q | ||
| 7 | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland |
6.97 OR | 1 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 20 | 12 | 19 | 380.00 | Q | ||
| 8 | Anouck Jaubert |  France |
7.12 | 2 | T4z1 | – | – | – | 1T1z 4 1 | 13 | 16+ | 2:14 | 15 | 390.00 | Q | |
| 9 | Viktoria Meshkova |  ROC |
9.54 | 15 | T6z1 | T2z2 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 8 5 | 6 | 29+ | 5 | 450.00 | |||
| 10 | Shauna Coxsey |  Great Britain |
9.65 | 16 | T2z1 | T1z1 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 3 4 | 4 | 21+ | 2:23 | 13 | 832.00 | ||
| 11 | Kyra Condie | United States |
8.08 | 7 | T4z1 | – | z1 | z3 | 1T3z 4 5 | 11 | 22+ | 11 | 847.00 | |||
| 12 | Song Yiling |  China |
7.46 | 3 | z5 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 5 | 19 | 13+ | 18 | 1026.00 | |||
| 13 | Julia Chanourdie | France |
8.17 | 8 | z1 | z7 | z1 | – | 0T3z 0 9 | 15 | 25+ | 9 | 1080.00 | |||
| 14 | Alannah Yip |  Canada |
7.99 | 6 | z1 | – | z1 | – | 0T2z 0 2 | 16 | 21+ | 2:14 | 12 | 1152.00 | ||
| 15 | Laura Rogora |  Italy |
10.50 | 19 | z1 | z2 | T1z1 | z1 | 1T4z 1 5 | 7 | 25 | 10 | 1330.00 | |||
| 16 | Petra Klingler |  Switzerland |
8.42 | 10 | T3z1 | z3 | z4 | – | 1T3z 3 8 | 10 | 16+ | 1:49 | 14 | 1400.00 | ||
| 17 | Iuliia Kaplina | ROC |
7.65 | 5 | z2 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 2 | 18 | 14+ | 17 | 1530.00 | |||
| 18 | Mia Krampl | Slovenia |
10.43 | 18 | z1 | z1 | z1 | z2 | 0T4z 0 5 | 14 | 26+ | 3:16 | 7 | 1764.00 | ||
| 19 | Oceana Mackenzie |  Australia |
8.83 | 13 | T3z1 | – | z1 | – | 1T2z 3 2 | 12 | 15+ | 16 | 2496.00 | |||
| 20 | Erin Sterkenburg |  South Africa |
11.10 | 20 | z1 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 1 | 17 | 7+ | 20 | 6800.00 | |||
Final
[edit]| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[13] | Bouldering[14] | Lead[15] | Total [16] | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Finals | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | Results | CP | HR | CP | |||||||
| R | T | R | T | R | T | ||||||||||||
 |
Janja Garnbret | Slovenia |
3 | 8.49 | 6 | 8.67 | 10 | 7.81 | 5 | T4z1 | T1z1 | z1 | 2T3z 5 3 | 1 | 37+ | 1 | 5 |
 |
Miho Nonaka | Japan |
4 | 8.19 | 8 | 7.76 | 11 | 7.99 | 3 | – | z4 | z1 | 0T2z 0 5 | 3 | 21 | 5 | 45 |
 |
Akiyo Noguchi | Japan |
2 | 8.55 | 7 | Fall | 11 | 8.42 | 4 | z5 | z2 | – | 0T2z 0 7 | 4 | 29+ | 4 | 64 |
| 4 | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland |
1 | 7.49 | 7 | 7.03 | 12 | 6.84 WR | 1 | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 9+ | 8 | 64 |
| 5 | Brooke Raboutou | United States |
4 | Fall | 6 | 8.77 | 9 | 9.06 | 7 | z5 | z3 | z2 | 0T3z 0 10 | 2 | 20+ | 6 | 84 |
| 6 | Anouck Jaubert | France |
3 | 7.40 | 8 | 7.51 | 12 | 8.84 | 2 | z2 | – | – | 0T1z 0 2 | 6 | 13+ | 7 | 84 |
| 7 | Jessica Pilz | Austria |
2 | 8.89 | 5 | 8.77 | 10 | 8.43 | 6 | z7 | z3 | – | 0T2z 0 10 | 5 | 34+ | 3 | 90 |
| 8 | Seo Chae-hyun | South Korea |
1 | 10.64 | 5 | 12.85 | 9 | 9.85 | 8 | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 7 | 35+ | 2 | 112 |
References
[edit]- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Archived from the original on 2 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Archived from the original on 1 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
- ^ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Records | Tokyo 2020". olympics.com. Archived from the original on 26 September 2021. Retrieved 7 October 2021.
- ^ "Polish climber Aleksandra Miroslaw breaks speed climbing world record in Olympic final | NBC Olympics". www.nbcolympics.com. Archived from the original on 7 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Qualualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.