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As a non-mountaineer this article is confusing, it says it was "the first to successfully climb Mount Everest by ascending one of its faces" but it is not made explicit how this is different to previous climbs such as Edmund Hillary's. 194.74.27.242 (talk) 08:39, 24 September 2015 (UTC)[reply]
Someone placed a "primary sources"[1] template at the top of the article which I think was harsh but it is true that the latter part of the article was mainly based on Bonington's book and he was expedition leader. Clearly the book was not independent. So, I have now rewritten things[2] based almost entirely on secondary sources. I think this has not improved the article. The irony is that these books are themselves mainly (but not entirely) based on Bonington's account. However, if these later authors had thought Bonington was dishonest or biassed they could have said so. (They didn't and he wasn't). So this may not make very much difference in the present situation but it mattered a lot for 1954 Italian expedition to K2 (which I also wrote) where the official expedition leader's account was officially deprecated fifty years later, see 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy. But the 50th anniversary of this expedition hasn't occurred yet so we must wait and see! Thincat (talk) 16:14, 3 March 2023 (UTC)[reply]