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Trivor

Coordinates: 36°17′15″N 75°05′10″E / 36.28750°N 75.08611°E / 36.28750; 75.08611
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Trivor
ترِووُر
Trivor as viewed from Aliabad
Highest point
Elevation7,577 m (24,859 ft)
Ranked 39th
Prominence980 m (3,220 ft)
Coordinates36°17′15″N 75°05′10″E / 36.28750°N 75.08611°E / 36.28750; 75.08611
Geography
Trivor ترِووُر is located in Pakistan
Trivor ترِووُر
Trivor
ترِووُر
Location in Pakistan
Trivor ترِووُر is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Trivor ترِووُر
Trivor
ترِووُر
Trivor
ترِووُر (Gilgit Baltistan)
Map
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Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Pakistan
Diran
45
Diran
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Malubiting
Malubiting
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Batura III
Batura III
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
8
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
7
Distaghil Sar
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:Kanjut Sar14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Pakistan
LocationGilgit District, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeHispar Muztagh
Climbing
First ascent1960 by Wilfrid Noyce, Jack Sadler (British/US)
Easiest routeNorthwest Ridge: glacier/snow/ice climb

Trivor (Urdu: ترِووُر or Trivor Sar) is one of the high mountain peaks of the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range in the Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan. Its height is often given as 7,728 metres (25,354 ft), but this elevation is not consistent with photographic evidence.[1] The height given here is from a Russian 1:100,000 topographic map.[2]

The first ascent of Trivor was made by a British–American party, Wilfrid Noyce (UK) and Jack Sadler (USA) reached the summit on 17th August 1960. They climbed from the Trivor Glacier, which runs towards the peak from the south-west, and gained the high col at the foot of the northwest ridge which they then followed to reach summit.[3] One of the members of the expedition team, Don Whillans, had shipped his motorbike (a 650cc Triumph Trophy) to Pakistan from the UK and after his climbing partners departed, he drove solo by motorbike the 7,000 miles from Rawalpindi to the UK.[4]

There has been only one other successful ascent of the peak in the 64 years since Noyce and Sadler reached the summit.[5][6]

In 1991 Atsushi Endo and Toshifumi Onuki made the second ascent. They also took the northwest ridge to the summit but they started from the north side, from the Momhil Glacier, and climbed a northeast-facing spur to gain the east ridge of the neighbouring Momhil Sar, they then descended to the col at the foot of Trivor’s northwest ridge and so to the summit.[7]

Sources

[edit]
  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
  • Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989.

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^ http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/elevmisquotes.html#hispar Some Frequently Misquoted Elevations
  2. ^ "Hispar area expeditions". Archived from the original on 2008-04-27. Retrieved 2008-04-27. Hispar area: expedition reports and maps
  3. ^ Noyce, Wilfrid (1961). "The Ascent of Trivor" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #66 (302): 9–14. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
  4. ^ Noyce, C. W. F. (Wilfrid) (1962). To The Unknown Mountain: Ascent of an Unexplored Twenty-five Thousander in the Karakoram. Heinemann. Retrieved 9 September 2024.
  5. ^ "Himalayan Index". Alpine Club (UK). Search for Trivor at this page.
  6. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2024). "Trivor, Attempt on North Face Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh". American Alpine Journal. #66 (98). ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
  7. ^ Onuki, Toshifumi (1992). "Asia, Pakistan, Trivor Ascent and Momhil Sar Attempt". American Alpine Journal. 34 (66): 252–253. ISBN 9780930410513. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 9 September 2024.